Jo Ferris cycles the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Trail and discovers new places.
Over the years, trips north have included visiting the usual historic landmarks. But when discussion about the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Trail was tabled for the annual bike ride, this expedition meant new discoveries.
One of this country’s ‘great rides’, it’s also one of the easiest — 87km one way, mostly grade 1-2 and easily handled over two days. Running east to west from Opua to Horeke — or vice versa, depending on personal preference — we opted for middle for diddle and started each day from Kaikohe. This, because we booked through Kaikohe-based Top Trail Hire and Cycle Tours. Great to deal with, it also made sense to stay a couple of nights and start each day from this central point.
Heading east, the trail snakes through farmland, road diversions and bridges into Kawakawa. Renowned for its public toilets — to honour Austrian alternative artist, Friedensreich Hundertwasser — Kawakawa is also the only town where a working railway runs through its main street. Politics aside as to why a stretch of the cycle route was sectioned off, cyclists need to board the train between Kawakawa and Taumarere. Depending on which day of the week, season or school holidays, it’s either $15, or a gold coin donation. Run by the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway Trust, this historic steam train is a delightful feature. Apart from learning about the rail’s history and route, it’s a relaxing way to see the countryside.
Back on the bike at Taumarere, the trail reconnects with the old rail corridor. What should have been a doddle, through an old tunnel — sadly turned into a steep hike by foot ‘over’ the tunnel instead of through it. Not easy with an e-bike — even in walk mode. Apart from that hiccup, it was an easy, scenic ride around harbour channels into idyllic Opua, before being shuttled back to Kaikohe.
Our two-night stop-over in Kaikohe involved a rural stay in a self-contained cottage at Mulga Bill’s — breakfast included and dinners to cook provided for a small cost. Well worth it too — with home preserves, fresh garden produce and meat to either cook inside or out on the barbie.
Day two headed west – another 40-odd km, cycling the old rail corridor to Ōkaihau and around Lake Omapere. This was the site of Hone Heke’s pa at Puketutu — and the subsequent battle after he felled the flagpole at Waitangi — three times. The nearby hill is a distinctive landmark — and known as Hone’s hill.
As the trail leaves the rail corridor inland, it meanders through fantastic countryside into Snow’s Farm in the Utakura valley, for a picnic lunch by the river — this, thanks to homemade fare made on site at the Country Food kiosk. Open luckily, as if they knew we were coming, this family-run set-up coincides with cabin accommodation as an option for cyclists taking their time en route. Owned for generations by the Harrison family, it was a privilege riding through this farm. The journey eventually ends with a boardwalk cycle across a tidal marsh into Horeke — New Zealand’s second European settlement and home to the Māngungu Mission.
Shuttled back to Kaikohe by the Top Trail team, that is normally where the trip ends. With the rental parked at Kaikohe, however, we opted to drive back to Horeke and spend a night in the historic Horeke Hotel — New Zealand’s first pub.
Sitting on Hokianga Harbour, this hotel is steeped in history. Owners Peter and Laurel Maddren have invested heavily to restore its character, while ensuring boutique luxury status. Over dinner and drinks, Peter’s knowledge is enlightening as he regales stories about the country’s first shipyard and its bankruptcy after just three ships were launched. Horeke is also the scene of the country’s first murder trial — and execution. Peter has an interesting take on that notion.
One of the must-do places to visit is a nearby farm to see the Wairere Boulders. This has an honesty-box entry to walk the loop around a river that’s flanked by mysterious and, at times, cavernous boulders. Dotted with kauri, totara among other natives along the route, it’s an extraordinary landscape.
There is so much to explore in Northland. The solitude and natural beauty all around Hokianga Harbour blends with the more populated places at Paihia, Waitangi and Russell across the water in the Bay of Islands.
Our trip was timed around the Williams family reunion in Paihia in April — one of our troupe and part of the wider family. No doubt numerous Gisborne relatives were there for the grand occasion. It was by all accounts, a huge celebration. It was sad, therefore, to hear of the Bay of Islands’ historic blue ferry’s sinking a day after we left. We had travelled on the quaint wooden boat the night before, dipping over to visit Russell’s Duke of Marlborough Hotel to toast the sunset.
Such a short visit, so many memories. A roadie is in the diary for a longer sojourn in Northland in the future. It really is a beautiful part of the country — and deserves support as the region competes for the tourist dollar.
MORE:
www.twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz
www.toptrail.co.nz
www.mulgabills.co.nz
www.bayofislandsvintagerailway.org.nz
www.horekehotel.co.nz
