The first planting of a rare Spanish grape in a commercial vineyard in New Zealand is the realisation of a dream for Gisborne growers Doug and Delwyn Bell, but comes with a story fraught with disappointment and delay.

“I believe these are the first ‘true’ albariño vines to be planted in all of Australasia, so this is a big day for us,” said Doug Bell.

About 10 years ago the Bells made a conscious decision to diversify into some rare and more exotic grape varieties they knew were gaining acclaim overseas.

Among the varieties that looked good for Gisborne were albariño, arneis, marsanne, malbec and viognier.

“It was a big list and they all ticked most boxes, but the albariño ticked all the boxes.”

Albariño is from the maritime northern regions of Spain and Portugal where it is known as Alvarinho.

Mr Bell says it suits Gisborne’s maritime climate, the fruit has thick skins that can withstand rainfall, it is a rare and widely acclaimed aromatic and is a wine that matches well with shellfish, another feature of Gisborne.

Also in its home area, where the rainfall is only two metres a year, it survives.

“It is a great grape for here,” Mr Bell says.

The story behind the new grape starts in the late 1990s when the Bells went to Australia to find raw material but the New Zealand Government had closed the quarantine facilities here so it “languished” in Australia until Riversun set up its quarantine facility.

“It turns out that having to wait was a blessing in disguise,” he says.

The Australian material was DNA tested and was found to be a variety called “sauvignon blanc”.

True albariño was among 100 different varieties and clones imported by Riversun, once it had set up its quarantine facility and pioneering vine importation programme.

It was bulked up, but then it failed a virus test and all the vines were pulled out.

Finally last year a disease-free, true to type albariño was planted out to bulk up.

“It was starting to look like a 20-year project and I was going to run out of time. You can grow old in this job without seeing any wine,” Mr Bell says.

It was an emotional moment when he first saw his new vines all ready to be planted.

“When I saw them I could have picked one up and kissed it.”

Tribute was paid to a man integral to Riversun’s importation and certification of new vines — Dr Rod Bonfiglioli, who passed away in May this year.

“His enthusiasm gave us the strength to carry on,” Mr Bell says.

The first vine was planted in his memory.

Riversun’s Geoff Thorpe said the first planting was a huge milestone and the result of a remarkable journey.

The Bells are specialty suppliers of fruit to Coopers Creek Winery and once the vines have established themselves, the fruit will find its way into the Coopers Creek “SV” range of premium wines produced from selected vineyards.

“Coopers Creek is well known for trying new varieties, including viognier, arneis, grüner veltliner, montepulciano and tempranillo, so albariño, my favourite of the Spanish whites, was an obvious addition,” says Coopers Creek’s Andrew Hendry.

“Our conscientious growers, Doug and Delwyn, coupled with Gisborne’s ideal climate and soils, give me the confidence that grapes with exceptional aromatic purity will be produced.”

Coopers Creek sells into 30 different countries and has already had enquiries for albarino from importers in three of its main markets UK, USA and Australia.

A marketing advantage of the albariño was its name was easy to pronounce unlike wines like viognier and arneis which people are not sure how to say, Mr Hendry says.

The Bells will plant 3000 albariño vines this year and another 3000 next year on a four hectare block.

The first wine off the block is expected in 2011.